dunlop fretboard conditioner vs lemon oil

It's clean and pure, it's inert, doesn't smell, evaporate or go bad, heck some people drink it as a home cure. © 1995-2019 Harmony Central, Inc. All rights reserved. they set themselves on fire after sitting a while. (Note: not for use on maple fretboards.) Lemon oil or linseed oil? 4 oz. Paste as plain text instead, × Golden Nehru Jacket Award, Friends of The Gopher Society, We do not recommend using lemon oil on our fingerboards. The best place to buy it is your local drug store. Tru oil dissolves in mineral oil (such as lemon oil). Their claim refers to the fact that all of the lemony contents (which are only about 1% of the total product) are from real lemons rather than artificial fragrances. Rosewood is plenty oily on its own. Linseed oil is quite different. ". Not sure any of this did anything but. He uses a brand from an art supply (it's used in painting) and is very refined. If you use a light finish there like shellac, Tru-oil, or a drying oil like linseed or walnut oil, you'll avoid humidity changing the relief, fretboard cracks, those divots near the nut, discolorations, inlays popping out etc. You can post now and register later. However is there any reason why he prefers linseed over lemon? Just curious, like to know all I can about what I'm schelpping all over my schtuff. Be careful that Boiled Linseed Oil rags have a habit of spontaneous combustion i.e. Acidity in the lemon essence doesn't seem like a good idea to place on wood to me. The other lemon-based oil: Kysers is mainly a conditioner, rather than something you’d use to clean or protect your fretboard. Tru-oil dries hard like a varnish. Luthiers at Hamer, Martin and PRS recommend it over Lemon Oil (I was there, I asked). I just did a neck with one (not the fretboard) and after mulitple coats with light sanding between it's like glass. I've seen a bunch of guys use goofy things. Lemon oil is dubious as best as to the contents, but most is a concoction with mineral oil as the base. Tung Oil on the back of an unfinished neck is great though. Most lemon oils are simply low grade Light Mineral Oil and a splash of naphtha (or similar solvent), and many times a lemon scent is added because people expect a lemon oil to smell of lemons. Sometimes tradition is just plain stupid. If so tell me about it. Linseed oil is a type of non-durable finish and is more traditional. ... You can see some discussion on conditioning your ebony fretboard at … Finger oil is all ya need. But: raw linseed oil reacts very slowly in the polymerisation reaction (can take months/years to harden). You could imagine how much oil would be leaking out the bottom of a '59 Les Paul with 50 years of oil soaking in! You will still use only a small amount of oil to clean everything. First few time OK, but it starts to deteriorate...... That Guitar Honey is what I've used for the last couple years. These are traditionally left unvarnished and raw, but finished with some kind of dressing to seal the surface and keep it smooth under the thumb. The best product that I have found is StewMac's finger board oil. One key difference between maple fretboards and those made from darker woods like rosewood or ebony is that usually, a single piece of maple is used for the neck and the fretboard. It is a non-drying oil so after it is absorbed into the wood, it will never become solid.   Your link has been automatically embedded. Doesn't need conditioning. Same bottle/color. Dr Duck's, Gibson's Fretboard conditioner, bore oil, Fast Fret, Fender and Dunlop's fretboard stuff is all low grade Light Mineral Oil with a light solvent added, and in a little special bottle, that is the most expensive way to buy it! As I said before when conditioning you might be best to avoid Lemon Oil as it could end up drying out the fretboard in the long term. If you want to put some on every year or so it won't do any harm. Actually lemon oil is kerosene. Tru-oil is a finishing oil and sometimes we hear of gun oils being used too. That is to say, if you put lemon oil or guitar honey on a fretboard and let it set for 5 minutes or so, the results seem to be about the same. Cool, I was actually asking because I got some kinda at random, and used it on my Fender bass (rosewood). I'll use lemon oil (with the solvent) on a guitar that got really grungy, or if I bought it used, or I'll use a touch of straight Naphtha if it's really really filthy, and I'll usually wait until the next string change to put on the Light Mineral Oil. (it's a radical reaction promoted by oxygen.) applicator top. It is formulated to be a cleaner and will strip off old layers of wax that has commonly built up on furniture [finishes]. It has nothing to do with lemons besides the colour and tart smell. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, Press J to jump to the feed.

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